The Slanted Door
Permanently Closed
Modern Vietnamese fare with bay views and iconic dishes
Modern Vietnamese fare with bay views and iconic dishes
"The Slanted Door is unequivocally two things: a San Francisco icon, and a “Keep Gettin’ Dem Checks” all-star. When an average restaurant’s lifespan can be measured in months, you have to applaud a place that’s managed to persevere for nearly two decades. They’re clearly doing something right here. And, given that they’re able to make it rain harder than any other restaurant in California, without serving $500 Goose bottles or $100 steaks, it must be something to do with the food. Or the view, which is admittedly pretty awesome. The Golden Gate Bridge is still the Giants to the Bay Bridge’s A’s, but we’ve got a soft spot for the latter (and the A’s). It makes up for its pedestrian color palette with sheer magnitude. The Slanted Door makes liberal use of glass to remind you that you’re right on the water, under this bridgey behemoth, and we approve. So what’s the key to The Slanted Door hanging around? We have a few ideas. The first is that back in 1995, upscale Asian food in a shiny setting was a new and exciting concept, and these guys jumped on the opportunity. The second is that while the transported-from-1995 food is not balls-out amazing, it’s not strictly bad, and they know how to put it out with relentless operational efficiency. (Some of it is even good!) The third is that the cocktails are strong as sh*t and damned tasty, so everyone walks away sloshed and satiated. We don’t disapprove of this strategy. Some restaurants that have been around a long time feel like ageless classics. (See Zuni Cafe.) The Slanted Door feels more like an aged classic. We can see how decent papaya salads and spring rolls with fancy ingredients were exciting stuff back in the day. But the world of food has moved forward, and The Slanted Door seems like it stood still. Food Rundown Slanted Door Spring Rolls Our least favorite dish of the night. We actually left two on the table. It’s not that they were bad, but they were just a tiny bit better than the version at our neighborhood pho joint, which are one-third the price. Just not that exciting. Papaya Salad Same problem as the spring rolls - this is a reasonable papaya salad, but there are probably 10-20 better versions in town. Daikon Rice Cakes This, on the other hand, was pretty good. The sweet chili soy sauce was delicious, and we can’t resist a good dipping sauce. Shaking Beef A pretty well-cooked steak, cubed, without enough seasoning. It’s a nice piece of meat but wasn’t really packed with much flavor beyond steakiness. Cellophane Noodles The most iconic dish, for good reason. Somehow the noodles end up tasting like they were smoked on a charcoal grill (they weren’t). The semi-intoxicated treasure hunt for tasty crab bits makes the end of the meal a real pleasure." - Max Child
"The flagship Slanted Door restaurant located at San Francisco’s historic Ferry Building has still yet to reopen after closing during the early days of the pandemic." - Lauren Saria
"If you heard about the limited Slanted Door pop-up at Rice & Bones in UC Berkeley’s Wurster Hall last month but missed out, there’s some good news: chef Charles Phan is extending the residence by another month. The Slanted Door pop-up will take place Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday nights until the end of July, featuring two new menus (grilled sardines and pork belly served July 6-15, and scallops and oxtail served July 20-29). Reservations can be found here." - Dianne de Guzman
"Chef Charles Phan's restaurant Slanted Door helped elevate Vietnamese cuisine in the United States, introducing it in all of its nuance and complexity to diners who may have tried pho soup only once, if that. When the original location closed in 2002, it came as a blow to the city's dining scene, but fortunately Phan reopened at a new space in the Ferry Building. What also distinguishes Phan's cooking is the use of products from local purveyors (lamb from Anderson Ranch, beef from Prather Ranch) and the occasionally surprising ingredients that would shock the purist (candied pecans in a grapefruit-and-jicama salad, roasted clams in a soy-milk broth)."
"The first thing you notice about this San Francisco standby are the views. Ever since The Slanted Door moved into the Ferry Building from its original Valencia street location, the bay has become a welcome addition to the minimalist interior (same goes for the sleek private dining rooms upstairs). But one thing hasn’t changed: this is still the place for Vietnamese. The emphasis is on fresh and organic ingredients. If you’re wanting a quick fix, you can also pick up food to-go at their Out the Door counter in the Ferry Building marketplace. Slanted Door also has a few sister restaurants including Out The Door on Bush Street, which is where the crowds are flocking these days. "