Mike Yee
Google
Every time I return back to Japan, I subconsciously anticipate the next great bowl of noodles that's going to proverbially change my life. Tsukemen (dry ramen noodles, prepared for dipping in a concentrated broth or consumme) is a favourite of mine above its soupy-er and more famous sibling. Characteristically, the "men"/"mein" is a thicker cut egg noodle that, when paired with a well developed broth-concentrate, plays the perfect vessel for carrying grenades of umami into your gullet. In many ways, it feels more like an analogue to torn bread and dip, or soup, rather than other noodle dishes.
Gonokami uses a unique blend of misoshiro and ebi (shrimp/prawn) along with various cuts of house cooked and cured tonkotsu. I had no idea this spot was reputable, but I should have known. From the look of the noodles in online snaps to succinct "bowling" (technically not plating) to the Kaiju-esque prawn banner out front, all signs pointed to potential foodgasm.
At GS, the sum of its parts is what makes this dry noodle interpretation truly unique. My friend who has also dined here, prescribed it as almost Italian leaning, the way the broth is essentially a rue with an intense sweetness from the prawn infusion, lambasted thereafter by some sourness from the pickled pork, earthy funk from the miso and finally shaved shallots to cut everything. A nice textural contrast is added with the lotus root blocks in the dipping broth as well.
For my money, this is, contextually, an upper tier dining experience back home in Sydney. With places charging around $50 AUD for product with half the heart/effort/sourcing, it feels like the best I can do to top up the bill and give this young team the props they deserve is some words from the head, heart and extremely satisfied stomach.
Like any other Ramen-Ya, a ticket system is used whereby your order is captured in advance of your seating. Get there early!