Mike S.
Yelp
Could I really give this place less than 5 stars? I think I have to. It doesn't necessarily deserve a less than perfect review given its competition, but this place isn't trying to compete, it's trying to redefine.
Where the Light Gets In is far and away the best restaurant in Stockport, probably in Greater Manchester, and certainly one of the best within the North West. But I feel like it could be the best and isn't quite there, hence the 4 stars rather than 5.
This place has a lot of hype to live up to right now, which makes things difficult for anyone. Head chef/owner Sam seems to take it all in his stride with a totally zen kitchen open to the dining room. There's no shouting, no sense of stress, everyone is in the zone doing their thing, although perhaps things are a little too zen (more on that later).
The place is pitched as a menu free experience which is right up my street. I hate making decisions so just bring me one of everything. It was (in my opinion) slow out of the blocks though with the first 3 courses leaving me a little underwhelmed. 'Flavour your own crisps', radish with nettle puree and a crab and mushroom taco all had good intentions but lacked much of a flavour punch.
Thankfully things picked up pretty quickly from there with some amazing dishes including smoked trout, a pork broth, and a cod and zest carrot combo to die for. The main pork loin was literally unbelievable and whilst the deserts lacked a little creativity, they were certainly good enough.
What disappointed for me was the ambience. Seeing how in control the kitchen was when we entered was impressive, but as the meal progressed that confidence started to feel like a little like nonchalance. The servers energy seemed to fade half way through service, the kitchen (which is put centre stage as if a theatre production) went from 6 busy chefs to 1 by the end of our meal, and the announcing of the dishes felt a little like the chefs would rather be back in front of the hob than talking to guests.
The other minor niggle for me came half way through the meal. We had opted for the tasting menu with wine flight assuming everything would be included for that price. It was a little unexpected then when offered a cheese board supplement. If you have it, we want to try it, but why not include this in the menu?? Not only was the cheese extra, but we were then asked if we wanted a drink to go with it. Given I'd ordered a wine flight to complement the meal, of course I want a drink. But what are the options? Will it cost me more? If I say no are there any more drinks coming or is that my night over?
Like I said above I feel like everything should be included when paying for a tasting menu, but if there are upsells then at least make it clear what the options are.
These are minor complaints in an otherwise exceptional experience though. If you're looking for the best of the best then Sam still has some creases to iron out, but for the North West he's made a bold statement that's highly worthy of the praise it's received.