Eddie K.
Yelp
It's been a decade since I ate here, but the meal remains just as memorable as ever. This is one of the very few Korean restaurants in the LA area that specializes in "royal cuisine" -- basically a multi-course experience with a wide range of flavors and textures, served in a private room.
Our party of five got the "Hyang" set menu, which kicked off with a slew of small salads and kimchi -- my highlights are the "tang pyeong chae," or thinly sliced acorn jelly in sesame oil; and the bossam kimchi, which is a labor-intensive dish with a beautiful result.
The other courses came in waves: Skewers of grilled scallop and mushroom; a sizzling platter of glazed eel and onions; a plate of battered king prawns, butterflied and layered with threads of shaved zucchini; fried fish and zucchini jeon, decorated with single leaves of parsley.
More, and more, and more: Steamed sliced pork with burdock root kimchi, poached beef with shaved onions, and black cod lacquered in a rich sweet soy sauce with chiles. There was a flaming hotpot of soup, with color-coordinated layers of beef, fish and vegetables in a soothing broth. A table favorite was the galbi-jjim, or short ribs braised until they're fall-apart tender.
Finally, as we started to fall under a spell of soju and food, the final course was offered: A choice of rich soybean stew, burnt-rice porridge, or chewy buckwheat noodles in a cold, tangy broth (naengmyun). The naengmyun is my favorite, but there's no wrong choice here.
This meal isn't cheap: $70 per person. But compared to Western tasting menus or Japanese omakase, it's a steal in terms of the amount of food. Odds are, you'll be utterly stuffed by the time the sweet cinnamon tea arrives, signaling the end of the meal.
The service was polite but unobtrusive; don't be shy about ringing the electronic bell, located on each table, if you need something (it's a Korean restaurant thing; don't expect automatic constant follow-ups from staff).
More than anything, Yong Su San is a one-of-a-kind experience that captures what makes Korean cuisine so interesting and fun to eat. It's a kaleidoscope of flavors, many of which are designed to be mixed and matched at your whim. I had a great second meal here, and look forward to coming back in the future.