"In an inconspicuous corner near Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, this far-19th-arrondissement seafood spot serves elegantly modern, shareable plates devised by chef Sam Schwarz. Meals begin with a signature amuse-bouche — an oyster (seasonally from St. Vaast or Oléron) paired with a spicy margarita shot — and continue through complex preparations like tuna tartare with Roman-style crispy artichokes and a ham gel, raw cuttlefish with red cabbage and kumquats, and occasionally a large pork chop meant for sharing. Finish with a superb cheese selection (think triple-cream Brillat-Savarin or pungent Époisses) and a glass of natural Cabernet Franc." - Eleanor Aldridge