"When Jean-Francois Piège reimagined this Les Halles institution he preserved much of its beloved 1950s aesthetic while overhauling the kitchen and updating tableware, doubling down on la cuisine bourgeoise: unpretentious, family-style classics such as onion soup, frogs’ legs en persillade, beef cheek hachis parmentier, and the cold-weather namesake bouillon-poached chicken with vegetables. Dishes are served in generous, convivial fashion—accompanied by shoestring fries, mashed potatoes, and a shared green salad." - Lindsey Tramuta