"In the hands of the chef, koji-marinated lamb loses its barnyard funk and becomes tender and deeply savory; a koji-rubbed lamb chop arrives with restrained yet insistent accents—crisp cabbage shards carrying fish sauce and chiles—turning a dish from a skeptic-breaking experience into a revelation, with other creations (like meatball-and-fennel-jam pizza) holding their own." - ByBon Appétit Staff & Contributors