"You know you’ve arrived when you smell toasty, yeasty dough and tangy tomato sauce; the thin, crispy slices here rival the best New York pies and are cut large enough to flop when folded. Run by a team that migrated from a contemporary Chinese restaurant, the shop draws construction workers, government employees, and late-shift cooks looking for a reliable, flavorful slice. The signature Madonna—a cross between a Margherita and a plain cheese pie finished with grated dry Jack and torn basil—is a highlight, and the mushroom slice with crimini, oyster, shiitake, and king trumpet mushrooms is singled out as not-to-miss. Dough is made with a poolish and treated like artisanal bread—folded, rested, and shaped for a spongy, fluffy interior and eggshell-crisp exterior—and mozzarella is made in-house. The interior is deliberately bare-bones so the pies take the spotlight." - ByEmily Wilson