"The three-year-old Sichuan standby from Z&Y veterans Jenny Wu and Truman Du does not have A/C, quick water refills, or any defining ambiance besides dark-wood veneer. But that’s not what I’m here for. I’m here to recover from the chaos of flying coach with a noodle dish that wakes me up from my plane-induced stupor with sinus-clearing Sichuan peppercorns and fruity, fiery chile oil. The heat runs through the porky, ragu-like sauce that crowns a tangle of chewy, thin, extra-soft mixian noodles. Cool, crisp cucumber sticks tame the spice, and a snow cap of bright cilantro and toasted peanuts add some textural crunch and herby depth. After a vigorous stir, you get the perfect bite: nutty, meaty, grassy, and nose-running-ly spicy. It’s the best—and only—San Francisco welcome I could ask for." - ByElyse Inamine