The Celestine

"Why book? Outside the big box hotels clustered around the French Quarter, there hasn’t been an European-style boutique hotel of his caliber since the Soniat House—which closed its doors for renovations in 2021. A bona fide local experience, The Celestine (from the folks behind The Chloe) feels like sleeping at an old friend’s house—complete with great art, intimate service and the colorful personality you’d expect from a 1791 dwelling. A reimagined 10-room property with private balconies and a lush courtyard with a babbling, three-tier fountain that inspired Tennessee Williamswhose former sleeping quarters now doubles as the hotel's parlor and bar. You can also sip cocktails downstairs at Peychaud’s Bar. Of course, location is everything, and the NOLA institutions of Galatoire's, Brennans and Preservation Hall are just outside your door. Set the scene Tucked away on Toulouse Street, a half a block from the bustle of Bourbon Street, the Celestine conjures an old-meets-new world vibe. Catering to aficionados of if-these-walls-could-talk dwellings, literary history and cocktail lore—you’ll also find the modern trimmings of today's traveler. Expect a mix of creative professionals, upscale leisure folks, and those looking for a one-0f-a-kind experience akin to bunking in a fashionable apartment. The leafy courtyard offers unbeatable acoustics too: sweetly-chirping Blue Jays, a three-piece jazz band warming up in the Court of Two Sisters, and the faint echoes of a Mississippi riverboat horn. The backstory In the early 1800s, the philanthropist Mother Henriette deLille, a kindred soul who founded Sisters of the Holy Family grew up in at 727 Toulouse St; followed by Creole pharmacist Antoine Peychaud–responsible for his namesake bitters—and his wife Celestine (whom the current hotel is named after). In 1944, Madeline Erlich opened a luxury boutique hotel called the Maison Deville, drawing the likes of Tennesee Williams who slept just off the courtyard; and later in the 80s, hosted Hollywood types like Elizabeth Taylor. Just last year, Robert LeBlanc of local hospitality outfit LeBlanc + Smith, known for The Chloe, and several restaurants (Sylvain) and bars (Barrel Proof, Anna’s) rescued the property—quickly reenlisting the designer Sara Costello—also of The Chloe—to spruce up the interiors. Happily, Pechauyd’s Bar, run by Crescent City native Neal Bodenheimer of Cure Co. (Cane & Table) was already up and running, and ready to whip up cocktails at whim. Rooms The Celestine has been dolled up with Spanish, French, Afro-Caribbean influences and a glam flair recalling the 1950s. A leopard print rug runs upstairs to ten rooms— each uniquely decorated with local antique finds; pencil drawings, 19th-century oil paintings (discovered in the hotel’s attic), four-poster beds and Parisian-inspired pendants. A duo of splurge-worthy suites are lovely for longer stays; Suite Madeline takes up the third floor, feeling like a chic atelier with a sitting area and views of Toulouse Street and the courtyard. White-and-black tiled bathrooms are kitted out with lightweight Lekha robes, and minibars brim with temptations: Sazerac Rye, Starlino Maraschino Cherries and Zapp's Voodoo chips. Chic tarot cards offered at check-in grant you a complimentary drink at Peychauds, best enjoyed from your balcony. Food and Drink: The hotel doesn’t have a kitchen, however, in the parlor, you’ll find espresso drinks (with French Truck beans) alongside wine, beer, and cocktails (from a Bodenheimer-designed menu). A few doors down, The Will and the Way (the house made pimento with spiced saltines and burger with red wine foie gras butter are requisite) is a lively spot for cocktails and upon a recent visit, was playing epic ‘80s tunes. Otherwise, you’re in the Quarter and the world is your oyster (the hotel also hands out a vetted Field Guide with local favorites). For a late-afternoon nip or pre-dinner aperitif, Peychauds is the answer. The Neighborhood This is the French Quarter—home to French and Spanish architecture, intricate ironwork and secluded courtyards. Early mornings are ideal for strolling—when the light is soft and the scene is set: street cleaners hosing down the previous night’s revelry; a sole trumpeter warming up on Jackson Square, and the warm beignets popping out of Cafe DuMonde and Cafe Beignet (when crowds are delightfully thin too). Alternatively, Clover Grill is a 24/7 greasy spoon for eggs and burgers; while Croissant D’Or Patisserie is lovely for coffee and baked goods. The service Intimiate, friendly service is provided by genuinely hospitable locals who love their city. When I was visiting, the hotel’s in-the-know Managing Director James Jefferies guided me to a wealth of venues from dive bars to hip newcomers and white tablecloth stalwarts. For families Keep in mind the hotel is centered around lively nightlife and revelry (perhaps making it tricky for wee ones). Thanks to the property’s intimate nature however, it’s safe to assume the hotel will serve as the ultimate venue for wedding, reunion and anniversary parties—bringing friends and family members together under one roof. Accessibility To preserve its historic integrity, accessible accommodations are not built into the property. However, there are two ground floor rooms available—and the hotel can bring in a ramp to access. Anything left to mention? For light sleepers, ear plugs are offered at turndown service. Saturday and Sunday morning check-outs enjoy a glass of complimentary farewell bubbles. Also: hotel guests can access The Chloe, whose amenities include loaner bikes, a swimming pool with an outdoor bar (with rotating slushy drinks) and a restaurant (don’t miss the pork & shrimp étouffée dumplings)." - Kate Donnelly