Café Frieda

"What were your first impressions when you arrived? You’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in a cool Parisian bistro when entering this vibrant eatery just off Helmholtzplatz park in East Berlin’s Prenzlauer Berg, where co-owners chef Ben Zviel and sommelier Samina Raza have created an accessible ode to seasonal, sustainable cuisine. A huge seating counter wraps around the open kitchen, with additional tables on either side, and a comfy red banquette, matching the restaurant’s red curtains, lines one wall. Vinyl records and speakers—reminiscent of a Tokyo listening bar—sit alongside wine bottles and colorful books. It’s all bright, cheery, and fun, a reflection of the light, contemporary food on offer here. What’s the crowd like? A youngish contingent of freelancers chat over coffee and fresh baked croissants during a mid-afternoon meetup. Then the after-work crowd trickles in, enjoying a glass of orange wine. Finally diners arrive for their evening meal, a mix of ages but a lot of neighborhood residents, heavy on the English speakers. Some are there for the relaxed vibe, some for the creative food. What should we be drinking? It’s natural wines all the way, with a large selection of European choices (heavy on the French) by the glass. You also have your choice of European vermouths, perfect for an aperitif before a nibble. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Café Frieda takes its sustainable credentials seriously, working with local producers and growers who focus on biodiversity. The result: seasonally focused, market-driven small plates, with a number of daily specials. If you see it on the menu, don’t miss their classic grilled whole red mullet with fermented tomato and house crispy chili sauce. Plus, the housemade sourdough bread is to die for, and the soft serve ice cream using local milk, with rotating flavors like hazelnut praline with sea salt and Meyer lemon with olive oil, is truly next level. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Staff can be a bit distracted, as expected in such a busy place, and there are sometimes waits between courses. Chalk it up to the hazards of popularity. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? The beauty of Café Frieda is that it can be whatever you want it to be: a pitstop for a quick coffee, a hangout for early evening oysters and pét-nat, or a late-night dining destination (it’s open till midnight), grooving to jazz on the turntable." - Liz Humphreys