The Best New Restaurants in New York City
"If there’s someone in your life who you love and yet is under the impression that plant-based fine-dining are two-word hyphenates that cannot co-exist, bring them to Clemente Bar. It’s the latest brainchild of Swiss chef Daniel Humm, maestro of illustrious Eleven Madison Park, which Humm reimagined in 2021 to be entirely plant-based and became the first and only plant-based restaurant in Michelin Guide history to receive a three-star rating. That said, to do dinner at this white-tablecoth institution can feel like too much of an event for any skeptic of plant-based cuisine. And good luck getting a reservation. Enter Clemente, a cocktail bar and tasting counter that opened this fall in a space that resembles a very chic attic above Eleven Madison Park. Much like EMP, Clemente serves an entirely plant-based menu that manifests as sumptuous and savory bar bites. Some highlights: sake pickles with kohlrabi and cucumber, all crunch and brightness; decadent carrot tartare topped with tonburi, a type of edible seed sometimes called “land caviar”; inari (a pouch of seasoned fried tofu with sushi rice) topped with avocado; and the Agedashi Dog, fried tofu served in a potato roll and garnished with black truffles. The whole effect is that of Humm’s thesis statement on plant-based cooking: No need to be fussy; all this can just be plain ol’ fun. (The evening made me consider vegetarianism, but only fleetingly because I lack the skills and patience of Clemente’s—and EMP’s—brilliant cooks.) Of course, not to be outdone are the cocktails, so well-bodied and round on the palate that they almost have a chew to them. The list is divided into sections like “light,” “bold,” and “clarified,” offering stars like the refreshing 5th Leaf, a pisco drink with smoked sunchoke, pear, and shiso; and the Clemente Martini, the cleanest dirty martini I’ve ever had—tasty and edgy, thanks to the green curry and saffron. They all pair well with the interiors designed by Francesco Clemente Studio, where frescoes depict Surrealist Lite fantasias and the dim lighting sets the mood for the savvy crowd and charming staff. —Matt Ortile, associate editor" - CNT Editors
