The Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection — Museum Review | Condé Nast Traveler
"Zoom out. What’s this place all about? One of the most long-awaited temples to modern art in Paris (twenty years in the making) sits prominently between the Seine River and Les Halles in the 130-year-old Bourse de Commerce building, once a grain and commodities exchange a stone’s throw from the Louvre . The Pinault Collection, named for the 10,000-piece private collection of contemporary greats from arts patron and billionaire François Pinault (founder of Kering), occupies a striking, domed building painstakingly restored by the award-winning Japanese architect Tadao Ando over the course of a decade. The challenge was transforming a protected, historic structure into an art museum, and they more than succeeded. A museum's permanent collection is its defining feature: How was this one? The overarching vision is to highlight the works from Pinault's own collection, primarily paintings, sculptures, photographs, installations, and objects from the 1960s to the present day by notable figures such as Cy Twombly, Cindy Sherman, Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons, and some 400 others. In addition to the permanent programming, there is an ever-rotating series of temporary exhibits—thematic displays based on works in the collection, exhibitions dedicated to artists whose works are included in the overall collection, in addition to carte blanches and special projects. The building itself is part of the work to marvel, spanning four centuries (the interior façade of the four-story, central rotunda, which shores up the iron dome, is the major preserved feature of the original structure). Exhibits keep us coming back. What can we expect? See above for temporary exhibits. The space itself delivers the biggest wow factor, particularly the central rotunda which is suffused in beautiful, natural light. The rest, which includes 10 exhibition galleries, reception areas, and a 284-seat auditorium on the lower level reserved for talks and projections, are well-conceived, easy to navigate, and breathable. What did you make of the crowd? While there has been a lot of fanfare around the museum, most visitors reserve timed tickets in advance which controls the flow of traffic. Some visitors seem to wander aimlessly, more intrigued by the space itself and the 19th-century murals depicting Triumphal Fra that adorn the dome. Others appeared engrossed in the works. Despite the contemporary foundation of the collection, there's enough to appeal to visitors of all ages. On the practical tip, how were the facilities? The space is easy to navigate, either via stairs or large elevators. Corridors are rather spacious as well (no jostling necessary). It only bottlenecks when there are guided tours. Any guided tours worth trying? There are free 20-minute insight tours, conversations with museum guides in the exhibition spaces and an online app, free of charge and without downloading, are offered to all visitors. On weekends, guides come to meet the children and offer them a booklet and games to explore the museum. Gift shop: obligatory, inspiring—or skip it? This is a book-forward gift shop. In fact, some 250 books related to the exhibitions, the building's history and architecture, and other Pinault-relevant works are on sale. You'll also find stationery, postcards, posters and a few objects but it's more educational than whimsical in terms of selection. Is the café worth a stop? Halle Aux Grains restaurant on the third floor, run by beloved restaurateurs Michel and Sébastien Bras (and yes, ancient grains get a spotlight on the menu). This is a full-service, tasting menu situation, not fit for a quick and casual nibble. Any advice for the time- or attention-challenged? It is more than possible to get a solid sense of what Pinault was attempted to convey with his impressive collection. And for those who aren't convinced by modern art, they should make the visit for the building's architectural prowess alone." - Lindsey Tramuta
