Osteria Fiorella — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler
"What were your first impressions when you arrived? In recent years, Red Rock Casino Resort and Spa in Summerlin—about 20 minutes west of the Strip—has been busily redoing its restaurants, adding al fresco dining spaces, and bringing in big names. Most notably Marc Vetri, the James Beard Award-winning chef from Philadelphia who was serving his cult-favorite Italian dishes at the top of the Palms in his Vetri Cucina until the Palms shut down for the pandemic (and was later sold). Now, at his latest Vegas venture, the outdoor patio instantly transports you to the Mediterranean (even though your view is of the red rock cliffs of the nearby conservation area). You'll walk in from the casino floor into the warmly lit space. But it's all about that patio, which gets one of the best sunset views in this part of Las Vegas. What’s the crowd like? Red Rock Casino Resort and Spa attracts an interesting crowd—locals, a drive-in crowd from California that comes here mostly to relax, and outdoor aficionados who come here for the hiking, climbing, and biking at nearby Red Rock Conservation Area. You'll get all of them, as well as people coming from the Strip who know Marc Vetri's Philadelphia restaurants. This is one of the more expensive restaurants in the neighborhood, and the patrons who come here are serious about Vetri's food. What should we be drinking? You could easily come here just for a Negroni and a few appetizers with friends, since the atmosphere is so transporting. Cocktails are built on Italian favorites, and there are some creative takes, such as a guava apertivo, made with El Jimidor Blanco, Rammazotti rosato apertivo, Ace guava cider and rosé bubbles. The wine list isn't a mile long, but it is thoughtful and works nicely with the menu, with bottles ranging from $52 to $475. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Vetri is famous for his Italian food that so many describe as "rustic," but the pasta he turns out at Osteria Fiorella is as refined as you can imagine. They often change according to seasonal ingredients, but some of the mainstays include tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and ravioli tre formaggi with oyster mushrooms and thyme. If it's on the menu when you're here, don't miss the sweet corn agnolotti with pickled blueberries, which sounds sweet but is just perfectly balanced. We'd happily come here just for the grilled baby gem lettuce with prosciutto vinaigrette, peaches, and manchego or an escarole Caesar that was, when we had it, also grilled. Pizzas, like the crispy Maurizio (mozzarella, Parmigiano, rosemary, olive oil) are simple and perfect for sharing with salads and a cocktail as the sun sets. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Las Vegas locals are accustomed to saying, "For a locals' casino, it was great." That is a phrase that the off-Strip dining scene should really retire since restaurants like Osteria Fiorella and others have sprung up in recent years. This restaurant is far more sophisticated and thoughtful than many Italian restaurants we've tried on the Strip, and is one of the recent additions that has elevated the area's dining scene to be a real contender. The staff, too, are serious professionals, some of whom have followed Vetri from his Palms restaurant to Red Rock (and even from Philadelphia). Vetri is busy with his Philly restaurants, but this is no name-only restaurant. We've seen him several times here, running the kitchen and making the rounds. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? We can imagine Osteria Fiorella as a frequent haunt for the affluent neighborhood residents, as well as a special occasion restaurant for locals. For locals, it's a lovely date place that doesn't demand they get themselves all the way to a parking garage on the Strip. Its prices are somewhat elevated for the neighborhood, but we think that's a good thing. This area deserves a higher level of service and cuisine—both of which Osteria Fiorella provides in spades." - Andrea Bennett
