"Perched on the medieval ramparts of the Castello district, I watched the tables at Gli Uffici fill up fast—lunch here feels sacrosanct—and understood why locals and visitors flock to it for cinematic views of the ancient citadel, the port, and the sea. I feasted on the nostalgic porceddu, a suckling pig slow-cooked with dandelion and rock salt extracted from the Santa Gilla lagoon, and soaked in the white crystalline pyramids of salt grazing the horizon." - Catherine Fairweather