Les Roques – Beach Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"Give us the wide-angle view: what kind of beach are we talking about? Set an hour north of Barcelona, Calella is a coast with two personalities. Get off the R1 train and you’re met with a palm-lined promenade and a wide, sandy beach that’s pretty typical of this coastline. If it’s sunbathing you’re after, our work here is done; we’ll leave you in the capable, Aperol-drenched hands of one of the glossy beach clubs. But things get even better when you venture south toward a hill with a lighthouse. Climb up the steps and you’ll find yourself on a path; look down, and you'll a quartet of tiny coves flanked by pines, cacti, and yellow wildflowers. Pure magic. Lovely. How accessible is it? Access Les Roques beaches—Rocapins, La Vinyeta, Cala d’en Pere, and Roca Grossa—via well-marked staircases that dip sharply down off the highway path. Rocky outcrops jut into the sea to separate the coves; you can scramble over some of them—depending on the strength of your inner mountain goat, of course. Got it. Decent services and facilities, would you say? In peak season, you can rent loungers and umbrellas; year round, there's also an impressive stretch of free public bathrooms along the Calella boardwalk. Cala d’en Pere is clothing-optional, so you don't need to change in a bathroom or awkwardly under a towel (if you don't want). How’s the actual beach stuff—sand and surf? The water is mainly calm and so blue you'll find it hard to believe you're in Northern Spain. Anything special we should look for? Pack a snorkel to catch a glimpse of the starfish, rays, and even octopuses. If we’re thinking about going, what—and who—is this beach best for? This beach is a must if you want a taste of the Costa Brava’s rocky, dramatic coastline—without the two-hour drive to get there. Buy a T-día train ticket for zone 4 (€22.45), which allows you to make as many stops between Calella and Barcelona as you like." - Gemma Askham