"Give us the lowdown on this place: what are we walking into? This isn't some buzzy new boîte, but if you've found a spot in the parking lot, consider yourself lucky. This simple place sits comfortably in the tradition of Southern diners, where meat-and-threes, counter service, and simple wooden tables carry way more weight than a well-poured drink.There’s still the large chalkboard with today’s selections at the front counter, but at dinner, servers take your order at the table. You've probably heard about the shrimp po' boy, the catfish, the grits, and the lemon meringue pie so high you could use it as a pillow, but that's just the beginning. Who else comes here to eat? This is a locals' spot, where you're likely to see the chef of a fancy restaurant enjoying a meal on her day off. It's off the peninsula and away from King Street, housed behind an inconspicuous former 60s storefront, so you know that the tourists who are here have done their research. What should we be drinking? There are cocktails available as well as wine, but for optimal menu pairing, most of the items benefit from a pint of beer beside them. Chef and owner Chris Stewart is fierce about locally-sourced ingredients, and that philosophy extends to the beer selection—so go for something seasonal on draft to hold up to those deviled egg appetizers. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. The Glass Onion is sneaky. Things on the menu seem simple, like shrimp and grits and bread pudding—but behind that simplicity is high-level execution from a chef who honed his skills in fine dining. Breaded seafood is light and crispy; grits preparation is perfection; and pickles are put up yearly by the kitchen staff, made from local stuff. Go for anything with catfish, the buttermilk fried quail, collard greens, and a potato salad that will have you calling direct for the recipe. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? The Glass Onion has been a proving ground for many in the Charleston food scene from both front- and back-of-house—so it's an exceptionally qualified bunch. It's counter service plus (order at the counter, table service, pay at the counter) at lunch and brunch, and traditional service at dinner. Servers are friendly, have menu favorites, and understand the importance of local as much as they get that you have an hour to eat before you're back at the office. It's win, win. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Bring the family, stop in after shopping, or make a night of it; this is a comfortable neighborhood spot where you can buy milk and bacon from the front case on your way out from a great meal. It's the answer to all your culinary needs." - Stephanie Burt
