"Ai Mercanti pulls off that difficult trick of being dark, grown-up, playful, and warm—all at once. The restaurant bills itself as a gastrosteria, and delivers with experimentation firmly rooted in Venetian tradition, and a light touch with dishes for all appetites. Some combinations here—marinated sardines with nachos; pea and cuttlefish risotto with ginger—come as a surprise in gastronomically staid Venice, but they work. You can taste the freshness of the raw ingredients in a menu that changes with great regularity." - Anne Hanley
