"Bodega de la Ardosa is 127 years old, and it looks it: Cobwebbed bottles and antique tchotchkes line the walls, engraved beer taps crown the bar, and wrought-iron columns alternate with wine barrels fashioned into tables. When in season, don't miss the artichokes, confited in fruity Spanish olive oil to an almost spreadable consistency before being crisped on a sizzling hot griddle. The battered ortiguillas—fresh sea anemones—sherry-braised beef cheeks, and gushy tortilla española—which has won gold medals—are equally sublime. If the main dining area looks too packed, peer beyond the right-hand side of the bar: There's a back room that often has more space." - Benjamin Kemper