"Some come to this former mechanic's garage just for the cocktails. The entrance and left side are packed with glammed-up stool-perchers lapping up social lubrication and listening to a thumping soundtrack of classic rock before they head onto more formal dinners. But the bulk of attendees are here to hunker down with comforting, unstuffy Italian food. Treat the appetizers like tapas: Mix juicy mouthfuls of smoked burrata with onions foam and peas with rich gulps of eggplant alla parmigiana served with parmesan ice cream. For mains, it's all about carb-loading: an unorthodox spin on ravioli with veal, pine nuts, raisins, and orange; perfectly balanced dishes of risotto and gnocchi; even an old-school carbonara, all eggy and sticky and arguably the best in town. If the tunes in the background make you burst into song, who cares? And if you burst out of your jeans—well, chef Nicola Valle has done his job." - Isabelle Kliger, Gemma Askham