"Colorado may not have earned its place in the pantheon of regional barbecue yet, but Roaming Buffalo, a storefront smoke shack, stands as Exhibit A in the case for its future inclusion. Owners Coy and Rachael Webb bill their style as “Colorado Craft BBQ,” and the tight space reflects as much in pops of Southwestern turquoise and decorations that include a painted state flag, local license plates, and a buffalo pelt. It all sets your expectations for the menu at the counter. The Webbs' woods of choice, Texas pecan and oak, lend a softer, gentler smokiness to everything from wings to brisket to ribs to daily specials like pork-belly burnt ends. But Coy's rightful pride and joy comes in the form of Colorado lamb—namely the dark, rich, and juicy pulled shoulder—and meaty bison back ribs with a glistening crust. And it extends to the silken-textured, hearty venison sausage best showcased in the Bambi sandwich, sliced and piled on a bun with cilantro-lime slaw and a squirt of chipotle aioli. Anyone who worships at the altar of the smoker is going to get a kick out of Roaming Buffalo—perhaps all the more if they’re of the misguided opinion that Colorado’s not ’cue country." - Ruth Tobias