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"Intimate, dusky, and impossibly seductive, this wine-first bistro in Madragoa pairs low-intervention bottles with food that’s anything but an afterthought. Thyme-, lemon-, and bay-marinated olives set an unfussy tone, a refined stuffed stone crab nods to a Portuguese staple without the mess, and a finely cut beef tartare lands as elegant as it tastes; a standout brings slow-cooked, smoky Alentejan black pork with sharp endive and a glossy grape ketchup. The chocolate cake—gooey and warm, with house vanilla ice cream melting into olive oil—justifies saving room, and the 400-bottle list feels easy thanks to remarkably warm, guiding service." - Abigail Malbon