Sushi by Scratch Restaurants: Chicago — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler
"What were your first impressions when you arrived? After debuting their flagship restaurant Scratch Bar & Kitchen in Los Angeles a decade ago and several spots nationwide since then, Michelin-starred chefs, owners, and husband-and-wife team Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee debuted their Chicago Sushi by Scratch location, where they put forth a 17-course tasting menu for 10 diners per seating (three times a night). Guests enter via a secret door within a bar called The Drop In, where they’re then greeted in an intimate, speakeasy-style space for a welcome cocktail and beginning bites. The surprises continue from there, when guests are guided to a main dining space, meet three dedicated sushi chefs, and settle in for myriad courses and an impressive array of cocktails and sake. What’s the crowd like? Friends groups eager for an adventurous dinner out and couples celebrating anniversaries—all glad to have scored a reservation at this fast-to-book-out venue. What should we be drinking? Sake Sommelier and Director of Food & Beverage Gavin Humes heads up a spirits and sake program here (with an emphasis on Japanese spirits, including vodkas and gins). Three different beverage pairings are on offer (ranging from $105-$125): one featuring sake, Japanese whiskey, or a combination (sakes, micro cocktails, and beer). Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. The multi-course omakase features fish flown in from Tokyo’s world-famous Toyosu Fish Market—each piece a delight in and of itself that is further heightened by Lee and team’s signature touches and from-scratch sauces. Look for them in courses like the Hamachi (painted yellow with sweet corn pudding and topped lightly with breadcrumbs from Kallas-Lee’s house-made sourdough), aged bluefin tuna (with fresh wasabi and Lee’s soy sauce), and albacore wrapped in sake-soaked nori (and topped with ponzu, fresh wasabi, and crispy onions). For dessert, it’s another creation from Kallas-Lee—a bright Matcha Bon Bon, comprised of lime, white chocolate, and shortbread. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? The team here isn’t just friendly—they’re fun-loving, inviting guests to relax into what would otherwise be a serious night of fine dining. It only deepens the guest’s trust in the experience, and easily enhances the eve. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Come here to wow that special someone, or gather a couple of friends—with all the camaraderie here, chances are you’ll leave with a few new ones by night’s end (from the staff to your fellow diners)." - Nicole Schnitzler
