Chablé Maroma
"Set the scene.There’s not a whole lot about the Riviera Maya that feels undiscovered these days, which makes having to try to find Chablé Maroma a refreshing adventure. There isn’t a sign up yet on the highway, so be on the lookout for the little dirt road turnoff that leads to a gate and then to a paved road and finally to this jungle-meets-beach hideaway. The lobby, with its thatched roof and hanging daybeds, forecasts a certain haute castaway existence that’s confirmed when the private, near-empty palm-backed stretch of beach comes into view. What’s the story?This is the second Chablé property from Hamak Hotels. The original, the Chablé Resort & Spa, is located inland in the jungly Yucatán, and was a careful restoration of an 18th-century hacienda. It’s admirable that they didn’t try to duplicate the very successful original, with its palpable sense of history and colonial heritage. Instead, the hotel group embraced the beachfront setting and created a stylish resort—70 new-build casitas made from local stone and wood. That said, as at the original Chablé, the spa experience is deeply rooted in Mayan tradition. Also the food is just as ambitious, maybe even more so here with a tasting menu-only restaurant. What can we expect from our room?There’s a mix of one- and three-bedroom villas, all with white-washed walls, thatched roofs, tropical wood floors and ceilings. Indoor and outdoor space is blurred—draw open the wooden sliding doors and the large terrace with a hammock and a soaking pool becomes a seamless extension of your room. Bathrooms have both an indoor and outdoor shower. All of the crucial minibar beverages are complementary, and the tech is blessedly easy. Stand-alone villas offer the most privacy, but an upper-level room will get you more light and an ocean view. How about the food and drink?By day two, the staff will have your go-to cocktail and ceviche order memorized. Breakfast is a true highlight—house-made pastries, vegan berry pancakes, huevos rancheros, chilaquiles served until 11 a.m. For super early risers, there’s the ‘eye-opener’, a sort of pre-breakfast that’s left on your terrace and includes coffee or tea, juice, fruit and a pastry. The ceviche is another standout—there’s an entire raw bar menu worth working through. Chef Jorge Vallejo of Mexico City’s Quintonil oversees the menus. At the main restaurant, Bu’ul, the tasting menu can be a hard sell for more than one night (it’s expensive and a serious time commitment) and the plates can be a little intimidating (beef tongue, oxtail, ant larvae)—but trust the chef and all will be well. Anything to say about the service?Relaxed and engaged; staff members feel comfortable sharing stories about themselves and their families. Despite being a fairly large hotel, they are very attentive and go out of their way to get your name, habits (beach or pool) and preferences (tequila or green juice) down fast. Who comes here? Active and adventurous but also the sort of person who wants to kick back under an umbrella on the beach and sip a mezcal-spiked drink. They have a spiritual side and want to experience a two-hour sweat session led by a shaman but they also want to indulge in a six-course tasting menu. They're talking sports and politics and pop culture but also food and art. They're not afraid to go skinny dipping under the starlight. How does it fit into the neighborhood?Unlike its sister property, which is quite remote, Maroma is a 15- to 30-minute drive to Tulum’s hipster scene and destination restaurants, archaeological sites, and cenotes. Even so, the hotel feels like a self-contained world of calm and privacy amidst the more obvious bits of the Riviera Maya. It's not as exclusive as Escencia but a close second. And the beach is a dream for runners—perfectly packed flat sand for over a mile. Is there anything you'd change?Nice if a few more things were included—breakfast, morning yoga—and if the main restaurant had an à la carte option. The spa is incredible, but the small gym leaves room for improvement. Anything we missed?The hotel hooks up with a local dive outfit (there’s incredible coral and reef life about 30-minutes offshore) and the owner, Pedro, is a dive wizard. Even if you’re a nervous diver he’ll have you on the bottom of the ocean doing headstands in no time. Worth it—and why?Yes, especially if you’re a beach person—most guests opt to lounge poolside making it feel like you have your own private stretch of sand." - Jen Murphy
