Caruso, A Belmond Hotel, Amalfi Coast

"Set the scene for us: Where is this place, and what does it look like? An Old Master cliffhanger, a triumph of painstaking restoration work, with one of the most filmic settings of any hotel in Italy. The Amalfi Coast has become something of a cliché, but this reminds you what all the fuss was about in the first place. Mesmerizing and magnificent. Calm and uplifting. Wow—that’s quite the talk-up. What’s the story behind it? The original ivy-clad building dates to the 11th century but didn’t become a hotel until the late 1800s, when Pantaleone Caruso ran it as a pensione, drawing Virginia Woolf and other Bloomsbury types, and later Jackie Kennedy, Humphrey Bogart, and Greta Garbo. The Belmond group took it over in 2000 and began a four-year period of renovation, bringing in art historians and archaeologists while updating its design. Sounds like quite the undertaking. What can we expect from the bedrooms? Almost all have private terraces or gardens, and the original frescoes and vaulted ceilings add to the feeling of absolute splendor. Villa Margherita is the recently added standalone guesthouse, with a private terrace overlooking the sea—breakfast in bed takes on a whole new meaning. We can’t wait to try that. How about the food and drink—what’s on offer? Lobster. Vongole. Fresh fish. All manner of breads and breadsticks and snacky deliciousness. The Bubbles Bar for Champagne. Those staying at Villa M Margherita will have their own personal chef on speed dial. Breakfast is on yet another of those wonderful terraces. Yum. Anything stand out about the service? Immaculate and omnipresent—excellent poolside service, too. There’s enough room in the gardens to tuck yourself away for a horizontal afternoon on a sunbed. It never feels busy here. Excellent. What type of person stays here? Chic and quiet, treating themselves to time away in a restorative place. Got it. What’s the surrounding area like? Just steps away is Ravello, great for a drink in one of the restaurants on the square and ceramics shopping. Perfect. Anything we missed? The spa—you can have a massage in a gazebo in the garden. We’ll certainly sign up for that. So, is it worth it—and why? Yes. For the astonishing views, and the pool, and the secluded little nooks dotted all around—so you can creep away to write that novel." - Martha Ward