"Over little Cocoa's 20-year history, bigger, flashier resorts have tried to upstage it—splashy hotels with submerged spas, snow rooms, and ice-skating rinks. But this living-coral island—in a prime, not-too-hectic spot in the often-busy South Malé atoll, 40 minutes from the airport by speedboat—has remained in the limelight precisely because of its gimmick-free simplicity. The refreshed overwater villas (34 in all, some shaped like Maldivian dhoni boats) epitomize this less-is-more attitude, with dark teak, crisp white walls, and deep bathtubs. The sandy-floored COMO Shambhala spa has less comprehensive service offerings than its Bali sibling, but the therapists are still top-notch. There's a new Pilates studio, where guests with even the most pandemic-weary postures can straighten themselves out with the head-to-toe alignment programs, and more COMO wellness retreats are promised by the end of the year. For now, extra invigoration comes from being pummeled by a dozen jets in the free hydrotherapy pool. But the Indian Ocean is the main attraction, of course; unlike a lot of the reefs that surround Malé, Cocoa Island's are colorful, varied, and recovering well from 2016's worldwide bleaching event. Take a trip with Maldivian conservationist Aminath Angeela to learn more about rising sea temperatures and coral regeneration—you'll also spot octopus, lobster, lionfish, reef sharks, and amber-eyed hawksbill turtles. In keeping with the low-key vibe, there's only one restaurant, but the food is always enticing. There are coconut smoothie bowls for breakfast; proper pizzas and lobster rolls for lunch; and an Indonesian feast or surf-and-turf barbecue in the evening. Peaceful, pampering, smart but unpretentious: This is the essence of what a Maldives hotel should be."
