The Albatroz

"Although once a whitewashed fishing village, Cascais long ago swapped that simple existence for tangible glamour. Among imposing 19th-century villas where grand European families sought out a cool breeze to escape the hot summer lies the much loved Albatroz, a constant in a shifting seascape. Since opening as an inn in the 1960s, it has blossomed to become one of the first five-stars in town. Its buildings jut out on a rocky promontory, close enough for the sound of pounding waves to weave through any pillow talk, with Conceição Beach just steps away. Inside there is an enduring sense of elegance, a hint of mystery from the war era when spies filled the salons. A 21st-century freshness has been added by designer Gracinha Viterbo, who introduced hand-painted tiles, limestone, and palm-tree wallpaper, with a nod to the country’s maritime past in sea blue friezes where monkeys jostle with flamingos. Bedrooms are split between the old palace and a modern wing; there are also six hidden rooms in the House of the Yellow Ceilings, an Italianate jewel. The restaurant, buzzing with Lisboans devouring plump prawns, overlooks the sand, but the best seat is at the bar. To be here, glass of wine in hand, boats bobbing on the waves, is as near to perfection as it comes. Doubles from $180; thealbatrozcollection.com" - Mary Lussiana