"Sixteen years ago Francesco Pantaleone opened FPAC, one of southern Italy’s only contemporary art galleries, on the Quattro Canti, to showcase Sicilian artists and works from top international talent (he’s since added a branch in Milan). Francesco himself may be on hand to lead guests to his father’s shop next door, which contains the most staggering stash of religious relics, including rosaries, statuettes, and elaborate vestments."