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"In the upper reaches of Noto’s historic center, this restaurant is widely regarded as the town’s finest, a modern spin on tradition framed by honey-colored Baroque streets and a film-set atmosphere. The dining room, quietly elegant with white tablecloths, attracts a polished crowd who first take in whimsical appetizers balanced on ceramic Moors’ heads before settling into Marco Baglieri’s generous (for Michelin standards) portions. His unwavering commitment to Sicilian produce and to simply eating well keeps any frothy, lab-style showmanship at bay; instead, robust but elevated dishes like eggplant arancino with Ragusano fondue, tuna steak with a pistachio and sesame crust served alongside caponata, and sea urchin spaghetti arrive flawlessly cooked and free of unnecessary embellishment. Sommeliers steer diners toward native wine labels from an extensive list to complement the seafood, and many people leave only after polishing off at least one ricotta-stuffed cannolo." - Rosalyn Wikeley