"Kanda has held on to its three Michelin stars since 2008, when the Red Guide first landed in Tokyo. Born into a family of traditional Japanese chefs, Hiroyuki Kanda complements his classical training with ideas he picked up while working in France in his 20s. Sweet peaches nestle against silky tofu under a spoonful of caviar; bursts of acidity offer a high-toned counterpoint to the umami depth in a dish of abalone over somen noodles in a chilled broth. We’d happily devour Kanda’s pressed sushi with horse mackerel or the clay-pot-cooked rice, served with miso soup and pickles, every day. All is served on lacquerware from the Edo era. Scoring a reservation here–one of Tokyo’s most difficult-to-book tables–is reason enough to celebrate. For many, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience, well worth the eye-watering price tag." - Melinda Joe
