"Popular Cocina Boliviana, which I find above the inner patio of a decaying old house on Calle Murillo, is a lunch-only joint with a set menu that sparkles with creativity. Sitting at a bench by the open kitchen, I watch as half a dozen chefs—some of them Gustu alumni—turn out vividly colored stews, soups, and grilled fish dishes, plus native potatoes and legumes, decorated with flowers and herbs for a packed crowd. The food tastes delightful. The atmosphere is youthful and hypersocial. The price is almost embarrassingly bargain-basement."
