Self-Guided Centro Historico Cantina Crawl

"First impression? Cantinas are the traditional watering-holes of Mexico. Historically male spaces, women were prohibited entry by law until 1988! Today, cantinas are somewhat more inclusive, though still dominated by day-drinking working class men. Some are ornately decorated with Porfirian-era wooden bars and elaborate stained glass windows, while others sport plastic tables and chairs. Many in downtown sit on corners, with double-swinging doors to block the debauchery happening inside from the general public. How’s the crowd?     Locals and regulars alike hit the cantinas, which maintain a storied baseline for the drinking culture of Mexico City. Musicians pass through, sorrows are drowned, and gains celebrated. Many cantinas serve food, some better than others, and will often gift snacks and small plates if you consume around three drinks, though each spot has its own rules. How are the drinks? Beer and tequila prevail. Simple cocktails, built-in-the-glass rum and cokes, margaritas, sangria, rum, brandy, and mezcal. Some cantinas are known for certain drinks, but craft cocktails this is not. If there’s food, is it worth ordering something to eat? Some cantinas go lean, doling out toasted peanuts, others the offerings are three courses (soup, entrada, and main) from a fixed menu that changes daily—it depends on the spot. Some more upscale cantinas like La Opera or Bar Sella in Doctores have excellent food and people come for the kitchen as much as the drinking. Did the staff do you right? Older, surly, career waiters reign, and they've seen it all. Wrap it up: what are we coming here for? It's easy to pop around in Centro, hitting up a few cantinas to have a drink or two and to soak up the style of these classic, dive-y spots. The more friends you bring and make, the better." - Scarlett Lindeman