


58

"In a space that feels like someone’s home from another time—built in part by chef Sylvan’s master woodworker father—this is a personal love letter to his family and culture rather than a flashy temple of Japanese dining. I always order the hanetsuki gyoza with their lacy wing formed by a starchy, pancake-like pour that crisps into a delicate crepe; the sashimi is exquisitely cut, plated, and individually cured or treated; and the udon, one of the few things Sylvan still makes himself, is kneaded with his plastic-covered feet, made with flour from Japan, hand-cut, and wonderfully chewy—care shines through every detail." - Megan Spurrell