Taj Rishikesh Resort & Spa

Taj Rishikesh Resort & Spa, Uttarakhand

"Set the sceneTectonic forces set the scene 50 million years ago, when the Indian and Eurasian plates collided, giving rise to what we now know as the Himalayas. And what a scene it is, of forest, hills, river, and distant snow-capped peaks. What’s the backstory?Rishikesh has been prime Hindu pilgrimage territory for centuries, and is familiar to Westerners wishing to follow in the footsteps of the Beatles, who came here in a blaze of publicity in 1968. Still, this is not a part of India that tends to be at the top of many travelers’ lists, though it should be. This thoughtfully designed hotel, with its rooms peppered across a steep hillside, all facing the Ganges and incorporating local materials and design touches, will do much to help the cause. What can we expect in our room?A view of the river and the sheer hillside, which is not too shabby for starters. Otherwise, a generously proportioned, well-appointed, entirely spotless space with floor-to-ceiling windows and sliding doors that open onto a little terrace where macaque monkeys are eager to make your acquaintance. How about the food and drink?A revelation. The state of Uttarakhand has its own distinctive twist—pulse-heavy and coarsely textured, not zingy and saucy—that is little known elsewhere in India, let alone in the world. Taj Rishikesh provides the perfect introduction to these flavors, both at its main restaurant, Rock Flour, and at its smaller Riverside restaurant, which specializes in what it calls "Gangetic and provincial Himalayan" dishes. If familiarity is needed, by way of pizza or pasta or Punjabi butter chicken, all that is available elsewhere in the hotel too. What’s the crowd like?A mixture of well-heeled Westerners whose backpacking days are behind them and well-heeled Indians who may have bypassed the backpacking phase altogether. A significant proportion of guests are likely here to take advantage of the Jiva Spa—the largest of Taj’s signature spas, administering the treatments that have made the brand beloved. Anything to say about the service?What it may, at certain moments during our stay, have lacked in polish, it more than made up for in warmth, enthusiasm, and kindness. We suspect the wrinkles will have been ironed out by now. What’s the neighborhood scene like?The neighborhood scenery, you mean. Despite its name, the hotel is in fact some distance from Rishikesh, or any other town that might have a neighborhood scene to speak of. Instead, it is surrounded by magnificent forest and steep hills, bisected by the Ganges, which, at this point early in its course, flows fast and cold and pure. Anything else to add?Do explore Rishikesh. It's no longer the blissed-out sanctuary the Beatles wished it to be, if it ever was, but has its own curious aura of slightly frantic holiness. Also spend time in Devprayag, the town at the confluence of three rivers and the starting point of the mighty Ganges. Anything you’d change?The hotel offers daily meditation and yoga classes, and guests are invited to attend Ganga Aarti, a moving ceremony that honors the river every day at sunset. Sung prayers are traditionally accompanied by a harmonium; however, the accompaniment comes not from that ancient and wonderful instrument but Bluetooth-enabled portable speakers, which rather kiboshes the romance and grandeur of it all. Is it worth it?You might say it is a bargain, actually, considering its remote location, its high level of comfort, the excellence of its kitchens and spa, and the absence of anything else even vaguely like it for many a hilly mile in any direction." - Steve King