Emma — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"What were your first impressions when you arrived?   Roscioli offspring Pierluigi is one of the crew behind Emma’s Pizzeria, and it shows. The concept is not dissimilar to the Roscioli restaurants; Emma’s is a deli, wine shop and restaurant, with an extensive menu including excellent pizzas. The decor is modern, if a little clinical; think black- and red-steel tables and chairs. It would feel a bit like a museum cafe if it wasn’t for the big counter with Parma hams and huge hunks of different cheeses from Italy and France. Part of the original, ancient Roman brickwork has been left exposed, which contrasts nicely with all the modern amenities. What’s the crowd like?   The crowd is typically Roman : smartly dressed and interested in good food and its providence. There’s no age bracket; on the night we visited, there was everyone from 20-somethings to families with young children and their grandparents. What should we be drinking?   The cocktail menu is short and sweet: spritzes made with Aperol, Campari, or Rosso Poli, and your choice of Prosecco, Franciacorta sparkling wine, or Champagne. There’s also a very good gin and tonic list, and a couple of Italian classics, like the Negroni and an Americano. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.   Start with the Roman essentials, the fried stuff. The deep fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella from Amalfi and anchovies from Sicily are light and crisp, as are the tempura-style fried vegetables. The pizza bases have been created by Pierluigi Roscioli, with a focus on using the very best organic ingredients from around Italy. Pizzas come out of the wood-fire oven golden and crispy, thanks to a base made up of organic dough, Roman water (it’s a thing, apparently), and olive oil from Tuscany. The menu is divided into “red pizzas” and “white pizzas”, depending on whether you like a base with tomato or without. Both embrace the classic toppings, such as mushrooms, parma ham, or four cheese. A separate section, called "Flour Mountain" showcases original inventions like the Scozzese e Bufala, with smoked Scottish salmon from Loch Fyne, fennel, rocket, and shredded buffalo mozzarella. There’s also a selection of focaccia, bruschetta, and crostini. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?   The staff know their stuff; they’ll happily walk you through the menu or suggest some recommendations if you’re undecided. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?   Take a friend, or the whole family; everyone will feel at home at Emma’s Pizzeria." - Maresa Manara