"Why book? Chicago (and, let’s be honest, the world) has been waiting for this undulating tower by Jeanne Gang—the tallest building in the world by a female architect—to open for years, and the wait was worth it: Glorious city, lake, and river views, a stellar hotel gym, two restaurants, a world-class spa with an indoor pool and outdoor terrace, and a butler for every room (even in the entry-level category), all set in an easily accessible corner of downtown conspire to truly raise the bar on what a city boutique hotel can be. Set the scene Lakeshore East occupies the easternmost edge of Chicago’s Downtown Loop area, yet with a six-acre manicured park at the back and Riverwalk access at the front, this blue-and-silver enhancement to the skyline may just shift the action east. Locals book well in advance to snag a table at Miru, the all-day Japanese-inspired restaurant that’s been a hotspot for power breakfast and romantic dinners on its terrace since its opening in May, and stylish denizens know to head to the 11th floor Drawing Room to work or take meetings in the Library Lounge that’s always open to the public. Athletes and their fans, celebrities on a shoot or on tour, artists in town for Expo, business travelers, quiet-luxury weekenders, and smartly dressed families book well in advance to secure one of the few rooms (192 isn’t very many for such a tall building). Because it’s right on the Riverwalk, guests can stroll to a water taxi, meetings, shops on Michigan Avenue, or a sandy beach (of which there are 24 in Chicago-proper). It may be a high-end retreat, but the service and guests are fairly casual and pet-friendly—which means you can expect more fluffy dogs than stuffy service.The backstory Costing nearly $1 billion to construct, the 101-story tower (above the 11-story hotel sits 393 St. Regis condominiums) began life in 2016 as a partnership between local developer Magellan, which also backed Studio Gang’s nearby curvilinear Aqua tower, (the second-tallest building in the world by a woman) and a Chinese developer, who eventually sold its stake to Magellan. St. Regis entered the picture in 2020 and brought the brand’s super-astute service to all guests and owners. With all that street cred, St. Regis’s 54th hotel was able to lure award-winning Los Angeles chef Evan Funke (Felix, Mother Wolf) to create Tre Dita, a Tuscan restaurant (opening Winter 2024), and Netflix’s School of Chocolate winner Juan Gutierrez as pastry chef.The rooms Gensler and KTGY Simeone Deary Design looked to the style of building that came after the Chicago Fire of 1871 for inspiration; incorporating loads of copper and rust, plus geometric shapes (those chandeliers!) that would have done the city’s post-fire master planner, Daniel Burnham, proud. Every room is understated and done in grays, white marbles, and earth tones—plus splashes of blue representing Lake Michigan—and comes with one of four types of soaking tubs, all deliciously inviting. Unlike many high-end hotels, these quarters emphasize the luxury of space, which means they aren’t overcrowded with furnishings or flashy patterns, and the thoughtful lighting makes everyone glow; applying makeup in the bathroom is a treat. The views through floor-to-ceiling windows are the main attraction, even in the lowest-category, low-floor Superior rooms. I stayed in the one-bedroom Caroline Astor Suite, with a fainting couch overlooking the Chicago River and a circular tub separated from the main sleeping space by sliding smoked-glass doors. It comes with an extra powder room, a pullout sofa, and the option to connect spaces to transform into a two-bedroom suite for larger families. Upon arrival, I was met with a glass of Champagne and greeted by my St. Regis butler in the lobby, who offered to unpack my suitcase into the open-concept closet. (Yes, please.) Rates start between $550 and $650 per night.Food and drink This is a St. Regis, so the signature cocktail is a local take on the Bloody Mary. Beverage director Diane Corcoran served my 1871 on the pool patio, and it smoked as she poured the spicy red whisky-based concoction into my glass, a reminder that this skyscraper was built on landfill from the Great Fire debris. The steakhouse, Tre Dita, hasn’t yet opened, but the sushi bites at Miru (meaning ‘view’ in Japanese) are so packed with flavor, it’s hard to save room for the black-sesame mochi, served with charcoal-vanilla ice cream and black-sesame praline—but I managed. Tables for big nights out can be hard to secure, but if you go off-peak it’s no problem to just walk in. My 11:00 am lunch on the 200-seat terrace was almost a lonely affair. The $7 blueberry muffin from the little Coffee Bar on the 11th floor was creamy and rather indulgent. The spa It seems like most of the therapists were absconded from the Waldorf-Astoria Chicago, and I can see why they wanted in on this newest game in town. The seven-room spa cossets its guests—including me when Nicole began my “profound hydration” facial with a hand scrub and finished it off with a Cryo-Eye Contour add-on. Products were by Sothys, and they practically had to kick me out of the relaxation lounge. The indoor pool and outdoor deck are just around the bend…and equally hard to leave.The neighborhood/area Though the tower sits right above the Chicago River, the space between its circular driveway and Lake Michigan is a very posh residential area called Lakeshore East. It’s quiet, with the aforementioned park where small concerts and events occasionally take place in the warmer months, but you won’t find a lot of foot traffic (i.e. people wandering around the lobby or park). To be honest, there’s not much else up there—most Chicagoans have never even walked this way. But a morning run along the Riverwalk below is regenerating, even in winter, and almost anything located in the Loop is walking-distance. Some rooms and terraces overlook the gothic Wrigley and Tribune Buildings (now, sadly, condos), and Millennium Park and the Art Institute of Chicago are a few blocks away. The service Guest-facing staff are highly trained and given loads of agency to do what they think is best for their clients. That means nothing is too formal, and you might be complaining about your offspring with your butler within minutes. My own told me she made a rose petal trail to the tub for a couple who hadn’t asked, but looked like they were here for some romantic time alone. Since it's a new hotel and staff come from other properties nearby, you can bet the concierge are able to snag you a hot theater ticket or rare dinner reservation almost anywhere.For families At these prices, I was surprised to see so many little ones around—but the indoor pool is a big draw, and Chicago hotel prices are cheaper than in the other big cities in the States. Some rooms (like mine) connect for larger families, and staff is super happy to secure popcorn for a movie night in, or a babysitter for a parents’ night out. Thankfully, no nighttime cookies or chocolates await kids to destroy little appetites, and their folks’ patience. (Why do hotels do that?)Eco effort There’s nary a plastic bottle to be found on site; even the straw for my 1871 Bloody Mary was metal. There are spots for EV charging in the on-site garage.Accessibility This St. Regis took pains to go beyond standard ADA compliance. The pool has a sloped entry, and all other liminal spaces are accessible. Mobility-accessible rooms come with roll-in showers, flashing door knockers, and hearing kits, among other thoughtful amenities.Anything left to mention? Bring your workout clothes. The roughly 12,000-square-foot Athletic Club is free to guests and has every brand and type of machine you love. There are also three group fitness rooms and a set schedule of classes, from yoga to mat Pilates. Sweat it out, then jump in the pool." - Heidi Mitchell
