"Set the scene for us. Colorado may not have earned its place in the pantheon of regional barbecue yet, but this storefront smoke shack stands as Exhibit A in the case for its future inclusion. Owners Coy and Rachael Webb—he, a Texas farm boy-turned-formally trained chef, she, the granddaughter of an Illinois pit master —bill their style as “Colorado Craft BBQ,” and the tight space reflects as much in pops of Southwestern turquoise and decorations that include a painted state flag, local license plates, and a buffalo pelt. It all sets your expectations for the menu at the counter: There’s bison, venison, Colorado’s famous lamb, and touches of green chile. (Of course, those expectations could be dashed if you don’t mind the time: Business hours are from 11 a.m. until the food’s sold out, generally around 2 p.m.—but the pickings can be slim even before then.) Tell us more about that menu. The Webbs' woods of choice, Texas pecan and oak, lend a softer, gentler smokiness to everything from wings to turkey breast to daily specials like pork-belly burnt ends. But Coy's rightful pride and joy is lamb—namely the dark, rich, and juicy pulled shoulder—as well as bison in the form of either meaty back ribs with a glistening crust or sausage with cheddar and green chile. And it extends to fabulous sandwiches like the Bambi, combining earthy venison sausage with kicky cilantro-lime coleslaw and chipotle aioli, and the Redneck Reuben with chopped brisket, Swiss, smoked cabbage, and horseradish BBQ sauce on marble rye. Among the sides, the house-made white cheddar–green chile potato chips up the finger-licking quotient even further, as does the baked sweet potato with a luscious plug of pecan butter. Soda, tea, and lemonade are pretty much it for beverage options—unless, that is, you head out to the newer location in Golden, which has a full bar. What's the service like? The Webbs and their crew take pride in what they do, and it shows in their enthusiasm for making recommendations. There's a down-home flavor to the whole affair. So why, when you get down to it, would you recommend it? Anyone who worships at the altar of the smoker is going to get a kick out of Roaming Buffalo—perhaps all the more if they’re of the misguided opinion that Colorado’s not ’cue country. Just keep in mind that you’re here to eat, not lounge around; between a steady lunch crowd and limited seating, it’s best for a quickie." - Ruth Tobias
