A Guide to Spanish Wine Country
"Getting thereRioja, located an hour’s drive south of Bilbao, comprises three sub-regions: Rioja Alta, to the west; Rioja Alavesa, to the north; and Rioja Baja, to the east. The most prestigious wines hail from the first two. To get there, fly into Bilbao Airport or take a train to Logroño, and then rent a car to reach the vineyards. If time is at a premium, leave the planning to Rioja Wine Trips, a tour company run by an American expat whose itineraries combine the best of the region’s architecture, scenery, and—you guessed it—wine. Home baseMost visitors to Rioja stay in Logroño, a lively if somewhat unsightly city in the heart of Rioja Alta. The 12-room Hotel Calle Mayor, housed in a 16th-century palace, is a comfortable option located steps from Calle del Laurel, the tapas-filled street fabled for its raucous tabernas and expertly cooked “champis,” or garlicky mushrooms. For a bucolic getaway, pamper yourself at Hotel Marqués de Riscal, an eye-popping Frank Gehry creation with rooms offering vineyard views. Where to tasteA mandatory stop on any Rioja wine route is the Barrio de la Estación, a historic street outside the town of Haro boasting the highest concentration of centenary wineries in the world. Here, tasting is a door-to-door operation, and with so many world-class wineries at your fingertips, such as CUNE, Muga, and Bodegas Bilbaínas, you can’t go wrong—wherever you may choose to swirl and sip. Tucked around the bend from the main drag is the Zaha Hadid-designed tasting room of López de Heredia, worth visiting for its zany architecture and staunchly traditional Viña Tondonia wines, many of which age for ten years before release. Where to dineRioja reds and woodfire-roasted meats are a deeply satisfying pairing, and that’s why Terete, a tavern in the heart of Rioja Alta specializing in ultra-tender, milk-fed lamb, has been in business since 1877. When you need a reprieve from hearty Riojan fare, book a table at Venta Moncalvillo, an airy, Michelin-starred restaurant whose menu incorporates ingredients from its outdoor garden." - Benjamin Kemper
