"If I had to choose a favorite, it would be Harry's Dolci. My friend Carmela Cipriani always has a special table for me with a stunning view of the waterfront. Among the specialities is the famous carpaccio—invented here by Giuseppe Cipriani in the 1950s—and the deliciously creamy baccalà mantecato, a traditional starter of whipped salt cod, which I can never get enough of."