"Etta, an unfussy bistro in East Brunswick, has no real gimmicks and no overarching food philosophy; rather, it simply offers reliably delicious seasonal dishes plus some of Melbourne's most interesting bottles. The bulk of the starters are vegetarian with a strong seasonal focus, which could mean meaty mushrooms with chestnuts in winter or rich crumbed eggplant in summer. Of the three or four mains, the fish is often the highlight; the New Zealand salmon with horseradish and finger lime is a perennial standout. Finish with an ice-cream sandwich enlivened with lemon verbena. Nothing feels forced at Etta, from the seasonal menu to the waitstaff's repartee. It's the sort of restaurant you'll wish you had in your neighborhood." - Dan F. Stapleton