Malix — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler
"What were your first impressions when you arrived? Malix holds down two storefronts with their doors thrown open to the street; one side, a small grocery for organic produce, jarred and tinned comestibles and a display refrigerator full of hanging meat and charcuterie, the other a small circular bar with tall stools. A stylish, fresh newcomer to the well-heeled Polanco neighborhood. What’s the crowd like? The upscale neighborhood draws a middle-aged moneyed crowd, tourists making the rounds at museums, and those there to shop at boutiques and high-end shopping malls. Daytime is tranquil, later evening draws couples sipping wine and chatting quietly, foodies in-the-know, and the occasional industry person who only shleps to Polanco for an errand or doctor's appointment. What should we be drinking? Natural wine, small-batch spirits, an abbreviated list of cocktails. Most people are drinking wine or sipping mezcal. Fits the food. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Though the restaurant uses a Mayan word for street dog or "mutt", the young, talented chef Alonso Madrigal carries quite a pedigree. Having cooked at Noma, Kaan, and Rosetta among others, he dexterously taps into Mexican roots and carefully sourced ingredients, turning out small plates with strong, earthy flavors and delicate plating. The dishes showcase prime local ingredients like heirloom beans, wild herbs, and mushrooms from the valleys surrounding Central Mexico. He makes a weekly trip to Ozumba, an open-air, Tuesday-only farmers market, the holy grail for Mexico City chefs. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Madrigal has cultivated a strong team, knowledgable but not pushy. He often invites other collaborators, chefs, wine-makers and artists for coursed dinners and events. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Polanco is sort of a dead zone in terms of local transportation, cool restaurants, and evening atmosphere. It is known as a rich persons' playground, overpriced and snobby but necessary if you want to go to a museum. Malix is a welcome blip in the neighborhood, great for a casual lunch before a museum jaunt or after for elevated, interesting food with a thoughtful point-of-view from the chef." - Scarlett Lindeman
