“The pho sandwich: Do most soups translate into sandwiches? Perhaps, but that doesn’t mean they should. Gimmicky but legit, Little Kirin’s pho sandwich is a rare exception. The chef, Brendan Tran, takes the elements of pho (paper-thin slivers of brisket, shaved white onion, chopped scallions and cilantro, fried shallots and hoisin) and nixes rice noodles for a ciabatta sub. Heavily seasoned with star anise, the accompanying broth (sold separately, by customer demand) is as good as that of any pho in the city, and completes the soup-to-sandwich concept for a French dip-meets-pho moment. The meat braises for six hours and the lucent broth is simmered separately; this sandwich takes no shortcuts. ALEXA WEIBEL”