
10

"A vivacious, family-style approach to modern Afghan cuisine animates this Oakland spot from Paul Iglesias and Sophia Akbar, which debuted in early 2025 and, one year in, seems to be thriving, celebrating tradition in novel, sophisticated ways. I’d start with the generously portioned ducktu, a duck-centric riff on mantu with chewy dough, a duck confit filling that hints at sweetness, and a satisfyingly savory miso-ginger broth. The creamy Bonjon Borani makes a strong case for eggplant, cut into thick slices and stewed to buttery softness, then finished with tangy tomato sauce, salty cashew yogurt, and crispy mint. The kabob section is the main event, with an interesting selection of cubed, sliced, and pattied proteins: get the lychee-yogurt–marinated chicken tikka kabob with crunchy chicken skin and the succulent wagyu beef patties served with bold cilantro chutney, and use the fluffy naan to soak up the juices. For dessert, the saffron-infused ice cream and a Basque cheesecake with a delicate cardamom undertone, heightened by stewed seasonal fruit, are standouts. Drinks follow the same sweet-meets-spice thread—order the Pashtunwali #1 (date-infused bourbon and cumin soda) and the Sparks Like Stars, a playful lychee martini with a lychee-yogurt wash that nods to the chicken kabobs and makes a great pairing. Keep an eye out for the restaurant’s occasional Afghan Fried Chicken pop-up, with crispy, spicy chicken, caviar, and champagne." - Flora Tsapovsky