El Mercadito

A Mexican Pizzeria Has Opened in Jackson Heights Serving Al Pastor Pies | Eater NY

"A little over a week ago I visited a new spot opened by Mexico City native Hilario Morales (operator of the Homemade Taqueria chain) and found it tucked right inside the Roosevelt Shopping Center: 84-02 Roosevelt Avenue, in the Roosevelt Shopping Center at 84th Street (right inside the front door), basically just a counter, glass case, and stacked pizza ovens. In addition to conventional slices, the place features nine pizzas with taco toppings; my friends and I tried four. We ordered an entire al pastor pie (small $18, large $24) that was round and bright red, dotted with fresh yellow pineapple chunks and lots of chopped raw onion and cilantro, with al pastor shreds worked into the tomato sauce and plenty of mozzarella — damned good, though I liked the slices we tried even more. The chiles relleno slice was the most surprising, with a battered, stuffed pepper on each slice and Oaxacan cheese inside offering a subtle contrast with the mozzarella (I’m thinking of this as a breakfast slice). The elote slice is more powerfully flavored — roasted corn layered with squash and a garlic sauce, with extra sauce on the side. The chicken tinga slice is my favorite: it has a bit of burn from the tinga and an underlying layer of black beans, and I would eat it again and again; it’s not necessarily better than a taco, but it’s very good. Beyond pizza, they offer taquitos ($11–$14 for four) made on two white-corn tortillas with many of the same fillings (including tongue, ear, and birria, though the first two don’t appear on pizzas here), Mexico-City-style quesadillas sealed and deep-fried like empanadas (I had one stuffed with hot dogs and Oaxacan cheese, topped with crema and sprinkled with dried cheese, $8.50), plus burritos, sopes, tortas, and flautas — but I’m definitely returning for the pizza and quesadillas. The place is open seven days from 11 a.m. to midnight." - Robert Sietsema