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"Set on a quieter stretch of Sepulveda in Culver City, this low-key neighborhood yakitori spot revolves around a binchotan grill that delivers a smoky depth gas can’t match. I go all in on the $120 kushiyaki omakase, served to a handful of bar seats inches from the action; the set changes nightly and parades out skewers alongside soboro gohan with minced chicken over rice, wagyu, and grilled onigiri, so expect to leave absolutely stuffed, maybe with leftovers. Nearly every part of the bird hits the coals—liver, gizzard, heart, wings—with the hatsu (chicken heart) a must-order on every visit for its deep, pleasant earthiness that never turns gamy, while approachable cuts like thigh and breast keep things balanced. While meat leads the way, I don’t skip the vegetable skewers, especially the shishi-tou with blistered shishito peppers and the grilled mushrooms, plus welcome interludes like sashimi, chawanmushi, and karaage. For Westside diners avoiding Sawtelle’s crowds, it’s worth seeking out; I recommend booking ahead if you want the omakase, which is only served at the bar." - Rebecca Roland