
6
"A compact central-London spot offering muscular, unpretentious cooking built from punchy, chef-clever mini bites: standout dishes include chilli crab and avocado bombs, miso black cod with sushi rice tacos, and especially mushrooms sealed and baked with soy, mirin, garlic and butter that deliver an irresistible aroma explosion. The menu is designed to stimulate rather than impress and pairs with a brash cocktail list (whose jokey names can be off-putting), so while the experience is exhilarating and nostalgic for some, the intense, sensation-driven small plates make it hard to compose a conventional, sustained dinner—yet the place retains a rough-edged charm." - George Reynolds