Stephen Starr Just Dropped $20 Million on His Boldest Philly Restaurant Yet | Eater Philly

"Hyped and heavily scrutinized since before opening, this $20 million Stephen Starr production glows like a beacon across Rittenhouse Square. Spread over two floors with a bar on each held for walk-ins, we snagged bar seats in a more-than-200-seat room that feels spacious but not cavernous thanks to bottle-lined walls, soft lighting, exposed brick, and wooden beams that read as a more casual cousin to Parc. Service hits the Starr sweet spot—efficient and attentive without being annoying—even at the bar. Drinks are well-made, reasonably priced (under $20), and fast: I was charmed by the dirty mini martini that’s so cold it’s nearly frozen; a Negroni was well-balanced, and the wine list highlights interesting Italian varietals. Two signatures carry the most personality: focaccia di recco—two ultrathin layers of dough baked around stracchino into a crispy, buttery, cracker-like, quesadilla-adjacent slab—and a revived 100-layer lasagna that’s meatless and surprisingly light, with fresh sheets, béchamel, and bright marinara; it’s baked as a big slab, then sliced and reheated for a welcome crispy edge. Beyond those, our tuna tartare was unseasoned and pasty, fried artichokes satisfied for their salty crunch, a single meatball felt steep at $27, and spaghetti al limone was greasy and uninspiring. Prices skew higher than Parc, with big-ticket items like a $125 steak and a $68 veal Parm; our meal for two with drinks ran $274.16 including tip. It’s currently open for lunch on weekdays (11 a.m.–3 p.m.) and for brunch on Saturday and Sunday (10 a.m.–3 p.m.)." - Maddy Sweitzer-Lamme