"Longtime River North Italian stalwart Coco Pazzo has a new executive chef but “it’s as solid in the kitchen as ever,” writes Joanne Trestrail. The antipasti platter — full of prosciutto, Parmesan, grilled veggies, olives, and more — is “as good as it looks,” and calamari fritti “also dazzles” with “tender, delicately crusted squid” and a “super-tasty” cherry-tomato sauce. Among the pastas, a “simple but resonant” plate of whole wheat stracci with black chickpeas, onions, and pancetta is a winner. A few misfires include a “soggy” autumn salad and “disconcertingly tough” leeks wrapped around an otherwise “delicious” roasted salmon." - Jeffy Mai
