

9
"In River North, I find longtime Italian stalwart Coco Pazzo to be as solid in the kitchen as ever under its new executive chef. The antipasti platter — full of prosciutto, Parmesan, grilled veggies, olives, and more — is as good as it looks, and the calamari fritti dazzles with tender, delicately crusted squid and a super-tasty cherry-tomato sauce. Among the pastas, a simple but resonant plate of whole wheat stracci with black chickpeas, onions, and pancetta is a winner, though I noted a few misfires such as a soggy autumn salad and disconcertingly tough leeks wrapped around an otherwise delicious roasted salmon." - Jeffy Mai