Kanin, the Filipino-Hawaiian Bodega, is Chicago’s Hottest Restaurant | Eater Chicago
"Opened Saturday, March 8 at 5131 N. Damen Avenue, the tiny three-table Filipino‑Hawaiian bodega inspired by Julius Tacadena’s upbringing in Hawaiʻi drew hundreds of customers the first day — with musubi running out only hours after opening and the team even burning through the supply reserved for the next day; they closed the following day, Sunday, March 9, to regroup. Partner Noah Rabaya recalls the shock: “We opened at 11 on that day, at 10:30 we walked out to take a picture and there was a line,” and, “We were like — are you guys here for us? And they’re like, ‘yeah.’ And we were shook like you could not believe.” Lines have continued each morning and traditional Spam musubi and other items often sell out by 1 p.m., drawing neighborhood students and long lines along Damen Avenue. Menu highlights preserve island flavors and family inspiration: Spam musubi with varieties like tomato jam and egg (tamago), tamarind shrimp, plus marinated pork and chicken skewers, and a popular ube‑banana pudding; they also offer skewers and inari bombs (available at 11 a.m.). The concept grew from R&D pop-ups held at Novel Pizza Cafe in Pilsen, and the operation shares the same longganisa used at those pies; Francis Almeda (owner of Novel Pizza Cafe and Side Practice Coffee) and Ryan Valhuerdi (Tacadena’s brother‑in‑law) are partners. The shop stocks imported snacks and KRACKish, a snack brand founded by Tacadena; Tacadena keeps a 9-to-5 job at Pinterest while Rabaya handles social outreach and influencer engagement. Looking ahead, Tacadena plans pop-up dinners, additional locations, and a commissary kitchen to expand the menu — potentially adding island‑style poke — but for now they’re scaling operations: staff increased from eight to 12, weekday musubi supply is being raised to about 400 and weekend supply to 800–900. They’re also navigating supply challenges, including soaring egg prices tied to bird flu and choosing to buy tamago imported from Japan rather than producing it from domestic raw eggs. Reflecting on the mission, Tacadena says, “This is an experience in my childhood that I want to share, one that I don’t think exists in Chicago,” and emphasizes the inclusive ethos: “Everybody comes in here, everybody eats, right?” Tacadena says, referring to his restaurant’s motto. “And I think that’s also something that meant a lot to me.”" - Ashok Selvam
