"Bigger and busier than Mazar, Masa is usually only at a third capacity until it opens up for huge Afghan weddings. Mantoo here are decent versions of the never-spelled-the-same-way, pan-central Asian dumplings; but better are aashak filled with chopped leeks and topped with yoghurt and chilli oil. The true test is the simple bara, a lamb kebab, which Masa passes with flying colours, interspersing well grilled lean meat with crispy parcels of fat." - Jonathan Nunn